Forum Title: adjusting pressure on watts SB1156F water pressure regulator
I have a weilmclain natural gas fired boiler that has a copper water supply line going to it. The supply line has a shutoff valve and then there is a backflow preventer and then the Watts SB1156F water pressure regulator before going into the boiler. On the regulator I can take off the "cap" that has the lever on it to manually push water through. Then there is and adjustment that I can turn with a flat head screwdriver. My question is I am not sure which way to turn it to increase the pressure and which way to decrease the pressure (ex: clockwise or counter clockwise). I downloaded a manual for it online but it didn't mention this. Please let me know the answer and also anything else applicable for adjusting the pressure on these. Thanks
Category: Plumber Post By: MAURICE KELLER (Schenectady, NY), 06/18/2017

The amount of pressure allowed to pass through the regulator is controlled by a spring. The screw pushes on the spring, which pushes a diaphragm. The controlled pressure is equal to the spring pressure on the diaphragm. Turn the screw IN(clockwise), the more pressure is applied to the spring. Controlled pressure goes up. Turn screw OUTcounterclockwise , the less pressure. controlled pressure goes down. Is this a space heater and this is make up water? Why would you want to increase pressure? Best to buy and install a gauge so you're not guessing on the pressure.

- LEO BREWER (Wilmington, NC), 09/03/2017

This isn't a space heater but it is for make up water. I like the idea of a gauge. The reason for this is a long one that I will explain in another reply as I have to run now. I will be back in touch. thanks for reply

- FRANK YOUNG (Highland, CA), 09/14/2017

Ok, I'm back. Here is the long story. I have 3 story apartment building with basement. 6 apartments total (2 per floor). Each apartment has natural gas fired weil mclain boiler put in about 8 years ago. 2 Apartments on first floor have their own individual supply and return loops (not connected to supply or return loops on other boilers). Other 4 apartment boilers share common supply and return loops. One day a couple years ago I saw the pressure relief valve on one of boilers was dripping (don't remember which one). I researched this a little and replace it. However, leak continued. I found online assistance from a guy who was really nice and knowledgeable. He immediately saw that the pressure in the 4 boilers that share common loop was really high (don't remember what it was but I believe over 30 maybe even over 40, each boiler has its own gauge and they were all reading really high so we knew it wasn't an issue with an individual gauge). We started to troubleshoot this and replaced a couple of these watts pressure regulators. We replaced one or two expansion tanks (each boiler has one). We installed a bigger expansion tank even on one of the boilers (bigger than the one that was there). We individually shut off water supply to each of boilers to troubleshoot. Anyway, no matter what we did, the water pressure in these 4 boilers would go up. I finally just gave up as I spent so much time trying to figure this out with the guy online. I have to say he was really good and patient. Anyway, each boiler has a low water cutoff so I decided to close the water makeup supply to each boiler ( there is a shutoff valve on the water makeup line to each boiler that sits behind (farther away) the watts pressure regulator and the backflow preventer). Since I did that, I never had any high pressure issues again. However, a few weeks ago I saw that the pressure relief valve on my hot water heater (one for whole building) was leaking. I replaced it but leak continued on the new valve. I contacted a guy online who helped me and we determined that the water pressure regulator valve that sits right after the water service pipe entering the building was defective. We had a water pressure reading I believe of 138 psi. I replaced this water pressure regulator and set the dial to 70 psi and tested the pressure with a gauge and it read 70 psi. I then thought maybe this high water service pressure was the cause of the boiler pressure issue. My rationale was that maybe because the water service pressure was so high it was overwhelming the individual watts pressure regulator at each boiler and causing the high boiler pressure. Anyway, I want to test this theory. So, I turned the makeup water valve back on to one of the boilers on the shared loop and the pressure in all boilers increase to about 30 psi (it was around 13 before). I then remembered that I had fooled around with some of these watts pressure regulators on the individual boilers in troubleshooting 2 years ago and tested adjusting them. So, I may have set the pressure on the regulator too high or low. So, basically I am trying to get back to square one in troubleshooting the high boiler pressure on the boilers on the shared loop (the boilers on the individual loops are fine and don't have this pressure issue). I would like to have the makeup water turned on but not have the boiler pressure skyrocket. I should mention that maybe it isn't even worth fooling with this as I could just get the boiler pressure at a good level and turn off make up water to all 4 boilers and just leave it as I have the low water cutoff on each boiler.

- brent hartwick (Kokomo, IN), 10/12/2017

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